Cloudy Water in Planted Tank

I have no idea what is causing this but it has been going on for 2 weeks or so now. I have searched the internet and the two options seem to be algae bloom or bacteria bloom. Every morning the tank is very cloudy. As the day goes on, the water clears up. Then the next morning it is cloudy again.

So what would cause cloudy water in the dark with lower co2, then clear up with light and co2?

I am running 2.9 WPG for 9 hours, pressurized co2 at 30 PPM. (Turned off at night). Fish load it light for a 75 gallon.

Water tests show the following levels

Ammonia 0

Nitrite 0

Nitrate 5 PPM

Phosphate .5 -> 1 PPM (Hard to tell for sure on the color chart)

I am using the EI fertilization method.

Looking at the aquarium from the front it shows some cloudiness but if you view the length of the tank by looking into one end, you can not see through the water. This cloudy water was triggered by a large trimming and water change a few weeks ago. Maybe it is a bacterial bloom but It is interesting how light and Co2 make it go away.

Brown Algae

Well my planted aquarium has been running like a charm for the last month or so. After the weekend water change my water was cloudy for a day or two, and now I have this slimy brown algae. I have had this cloudiness before and suspected a bacteria bloom. When I test the water I have 0 nitrites and 0 ammonia. So it remains a bit of a mystery but does clear up in a few days.

After the cloudiness, I am left with this brown algae that looks slimy and easily floats of off the plants. I have had this type of algae before. If I didn't know any better I would think it is Blue Green Algae. The difference is it does not grow in sheets but strands, its not blue green, and it does not smell. This does not seem to common of an algae for planted tanks so maybe I will post some pictures in hopes of helping anyone else who comes across it.

I try to keep phosphates under 1 and they where between 1 and 2. Some people can fertilize their phosphates between 1-2 PPM but I always seem to get into trouble closer to the 1 PPM mark. Perhaps this is the trigger.

I will wait it out, do an few extra water changes and it should pass. I want to get things cleared up so I can start to sell/trade the plants online. I trim enough plants on a weekly basis to easily plant a 10 gallon aquarium and I hate to throw them out.

I will update tomorrow with a pic of the algae. Hopefully things have started to clear up.

Aquarium and Plants

Here is a picture of the tank.



I currently have the following plants

Potamogeton Gayi

Eusteralis stellata


Bacopa Monnieri


Limnophila sessiflora


Hygrophila polysperma v. sunset



Hemianthus Micranthemoides

Ceratopteris thalictroides

Hygrophila polysperma 'ceylon'



Rotala Indica

Ludwigia Repens


Heteranthera Zosterifolia

Taxiphyllum barbieri

Nesaea pedicellata

Dwarf Sagitaria


I have had very good success with all these plants except the Rotala Indica. It grows really slow in my setup. I suspect it is the hard water.


It is worth mentioning that although there are "Recommended" water parameters for a planted tank, save yourself the hassle and just use your tap water. My water is extremely hard (23 GH, 11 KH) and has a high PH (8). Since I use pressurized Co2 I have brought the PH down to 7. I do not use any type of buffers, softeners etc in the water and have to sometimes trim the plants twice a week.

Aquarium Fish

I started this tank out as a community tank because that is what I was familiar with. The tank has Otocinculous(Otos), SAE, Red Tailed Shark, Zebra Danios, Yellow Barbs, Red Eyed Tetra and 2 Male Kribs.

The Kribs where added because I thought it was time to venture into th Cichlid world. I thought I had purchased a male and female but I ended up with 2 males.






The aquarium is peacfull for the most part but the SAE, Red Tailed Shark and Kribs generally are agressive towards each other. The RTS and SAE are 4-5" in length and the Kribs are about 2" right now. The kribs are growing quickly.

Yellow Barbs




Simaese Algae Eater (SAE)



Red Tailed Shark (RTS)

Fertilization

I use the Estimative Index method to dose fertilizers. I will give a summary of what I do here. If you want more information on the EI method read about it here.

EI seems to be the newer PMDD (Poor Man's Dosing Drops). PMDD is still widely used and I have had much success with it in the past. A lot of people have had success with EI so I thought I would give it a shot.

Some people say that you do not need test kits but I like to double check the Nitrates and more importantly the phosphates prior to dosing. Personally I do not like to blindly does phosphates. Too much and you have pea soup and various other types of algae. Been there, done that.

TIP: Purchase fertilizers from a Hydroponic store and mix them in distilled water. More details on how I mix everything in another post. I get about a 9-12 months worth of fertilizer for $20. Try and beat that.

EI operates on a 7 day cycle. I dose the tank to the levels below. I may not be following the EI rules 100%, but I do what has worked for me.

Day 1
50% Water Change
5 PPM Nitrates
.5 PPM Phosphate
7.5 ml of a Trace Mix
Dry dose Potassium Sulphate (1 tsp which is about 10 PPM for my tank)

Day 2
Do nothing

Day 3
5 PPM Nitrates
Test Phosphates, Dose as needed to 1PPM
7.5 ml of a Trace Mix
Dry dose Potassium Sulphate (.5 tsp which is about 5 PPM for my tank)

Day 4
Do nothing

Day 5
Test Nitrates and Phosphates.
Dose Nitrates to 10 PPM
Phosphates, Dose as needed to 1 PPM
7.5 ml of a Trace Mix
Dry dose Potassium Sulphate (.5 tsp which is about 5 PPM for my tank)

Day 6
Do nothing

Day 7
Dose Nitrates to 10 PPM
7.5 ml of a Trace Mix
Dry dose Potassium Sulphate (.5 tsp which is about 5 PPM for my tank)

Equipment Pictures

The pressurized co2 setup is simple. I just run the co2 line into the xp3 intake.
Here is a picture of the regulator on the 5lb tank.

I just recently purchased this nice 10lb aluminum tank. Given my work schedule it is very difficult to get a CO2 refill so I will use the 5lb as a backup.

It is hard to see exactly what this is but I installed a GFCI plug. With all the water an aquarium has, this is a must have and very easy to install. Safety first.

The XP3 filter. This filter has kept my tank clean. I am not sure why some people double up on the filters. I have not found that it is necessary.

Aquarium Setup

75 Gallon Freshwater Planted Tank

Tap Water (Very hard water)
- GH 23
- KH 11
- PH 8

Hydor 300W Inline Heater

Rena XP3 Canister Filter

Lighting 220W (2.9 Watts/Gal )
- AH Supply 4 X 55 Watt PC lighting
- 9 Hours per day

Pressurized Co2
- Milwaukee Ma957 Regulator with bubble counter and solenoid
- 10 lb Main Aluminum Cylinder
- 5lb Backup Cylinder

100% Flourite Substrate

Estimative Index Fertilization

50% Weekly Water Change

Community Fish (Danios, SAE, OTO's, Kribs,Yellow Barbs)